Friday, April 12, 2019

Day 2

Orisson to Roncesvalles - 18 kms
12 April 2019

After a good night in a dormitory with many others - not too much snoring - we had a breakfast of hot chocolate, orange juice and toasted baguettes, picked up a filled roll each that we had ordered yesterday, then off we went, on our way from Orisson in France to Roncesvalles in Spain. What a day, an awesome experience going from 800 metres at Orisson to the highest point at 1450 metres at Col de Lepoeder then steeply down through a beech forest to Roncesvalles at 1055 metres. We were in cloud most of the way with vision of just few metres and at the top we were in snow - the track wasn't visible at one point, nor was road option down to Roncesvalles which was less steep. We slipped in the snow several times but never fell thanks to our walking poles. As we walked we heard horses neighing and cow bells in the distance but the animals were completely hidden by the cloud and the mist. Once we were through the snow the path dropped down steeply through a beech forest to Roncesvalles four kilometres away.
The large albergue, Albergue de Peregrinos Orreaga Roncesvalles, has three floors made up of cubicles with two sets of bunks in each is lovely. Pilgrims have been welcomed in this monastery albergue since the 11th century. After checking in a hot shower and fresh clothes felt like a luxury, we even had our washing done for us for a small fee.
The day ended with a fantastic shared pilgrim meal in adjoining Hotel Roncesvalles at 7pm followed by Mass at 8pm said by four priests in the Royal Collegiate Church at Roncesvalles. At the end  of Mass a pilgrim blessing was given by a very elderly priest.
The whole day was wonderful, we thoroughly enjoyed every minute it.

Breakfast time in the albergue in Orisson
Exciting - we're ready to sett off to Roncesvalles

We're off into the unknown...

Pappy's house Girls, it's all alone in the fog but he'll be snug as there's no windows to let the cold in

One of the route markers


Gorgeous trees
Saint-Jacques de Compostelle 765 kms (to Santiago de Compostela)


The French/Spanish border - a cattle stop
The Spanish Camino markers begin
We are now in Navarra, Spain




A shelter hut for pilgrims. It was surprisingly warm inside
A drink stop along the way
We were completely surrounded by beauty...



This was the start of the steep pathway which took us down through the trees to Roncesvalles.

This beech forest is one of the largest remaining beech forests in Europe
Nearing the end of today's walk the sun almost broke through - almost making shadows
500 metres to go

First glimpse of Roncesvalles

The small church
St James at the side alter

Waling back to the albergue after our communal dinner in the adjacent hotel

14 comments:

  1. What an adventure! Did you forget to pack your crampons?

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  2. Doesn't the forest look European? Nothing like a NZ beech forest...

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  3. Loving the photos, the snow is beautiful but cold? Question I didn’t ask is about your meals are they part of the pilgrimage or do you source them yourselves?

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    1. Hi meals are going to be a bit of everything. The first two nights the meals were included in the cost of stay. Most evening meals will be at the local bar/cafe ...or we can pick up bits and pieces ourselves to nibble on but the bar meal will be the easiest option I think.

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  4. Wow looks so beautiful and you guys look great!! awesome pictures, am loving the blogs xxx

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  5. The best adventure so far.... Loving the updates. Mireille xx

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  6. You have certainly risen to the occasion Was it your poles that saved you from totally tumbling? Amazing journey already.

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    1. Yes the poles certainly saved me, I wouldn't like to walk without them.

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  7. Loving your blog. Enjoy and keep safe.
    Pauline xxx

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  8. Looks cold there. Just put your blog on my front screen to be easier to find. Stay safe & enjoy your experience. John & Jean xx

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  9. Looks like the big hills/hard parts are in the first two days .snow looks colder than our five degree we had last night. Keep trucking on

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  10. Amazing!! Brekkie sounds yum! Keep the updates coming, loving knowing where you are. Xx

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