Day 43

Fillobal to Samos - 15 kms
23 May 2019

We've had such a wonderful day. Today, like yesterday, we walked on country roads and narrow pathways. Setting out from Fillobal before full light our walk continued our descent down from the high hills that we had been in the last couple of days on paths that were worn down by both pilgrims and animals. We walked through small farming settlements going past front doors and back doors, past farm sheds filled with animals or farm equipment and out in to the country again full of birdsong and river sounds and green, green trees. Hens roamed the streets, cats watched us as walked by and large dogs seemed to be everywhere - most were very placid, barely opening their eyes when we walked past but one bared its teeth and challenged us with spine-tingling growls; we quickly decided to go up another lane.
Our walk took us through the old farming settlements and on to Triacastela. From there we took the alternative route to Samos. It such a beautiful way to walk and to finish in Samos was perfect. We came down a hill above Samos and part of the way down we had our first glimpse of the Monastery of St Julian of Samos. This monastery, founded in the 6th century and still in use, is one of the largest and oldest monasteries in the western world. The monastery has been associated with Benedictine order for many centuries. In the afternoon we went on a tour of the Monastery. Unfortunately the monk who took our tour spoke only Spanish but some people in the tour did translate a little. We went to evening Mass in the Monastery which was followed by a pilgrims' blessing.
A plus for us today was an accommodation muddle made by the host of the albergue where we had booked, she had double booked so at her expense we are now in a lovely pension next door complete with a private bathroom.

Early morning on our path

We walked through the first of the farm settlements.

Even the tiny settlements have a church.

What is this structure? What would it have been used for?

Trees really dominated much of today's walk.

A glimpse of Triacastela, the only town we walked through today.

The trunk of an 100 year old sweet chestnut tree in Ramil near Triacastela

In Triacastela

From Triacastela we went left to Samos

San Cristbo - a village on the banks of rio Oribio with ancient weir and mill buildings

Pappy's house looks rather like the house in Hansel and Gretel, Pappy is worried about living here as its so spooky but there's a beautiful stream behind it so he'll never be short of water.

Our first glimpse of the Monastery at Samos.

The Monastery of St Julian of Samos

At one time 280 monks lived in the monastery - each had their names above their door. Now just 9 monks live here.

Our tour guide - a Benedictine brother

Looking back at monastery

The main alter where we had Mass.