Day 22

Hontanas to Itero de la Vega - 22 kms
2 May 2019

A good but tiring day through expansive cropping areas. The path was level except for a long climb that wound around and up to a high plateau which we crossed then had a short sharp descent the other side and on to Itero de la Vega. The day was very bright and sunny but there was a very cool wind which rippled across the tops of the green crops causing a neverending Mexican wave.
About 6 kms from Hontanas we literally walked through the ruins of the ancient 14th century convent of San Antón, St Anthony. As we walked through archway of the ruins we could hear beautiful soft haunting music (which we found was coming from a nearby albergue), it was very moving especially as the early morning light added to the moment. We felt as though the people who lived here all those years ago were close by.
A bit further along the road is the Convent of Saint Clare then on to the village of Castrojeriz which was interesting in that it was long and narrow and wrapped around the base of quite a high hill. It is the longest town on the Camino Francés. We had a morning tea here - we made a mistake in walking past an open cafe at the very start of the town only to find that it was the only one open at that time of the morning so we had a long walk back as we were needing a break. That added about three kilometres to our day. From there we had a steep climb up to 1050m on the meseta then later an even steeper descent down onto the flat again. Not far from Itero de la Vega, is the 13th century hermitage of Saint Nicolas - now a basic donativo albergue. Our stop for the day at Itero de la Vega was very welcome. We had a shared meal with our friends Phil and Lucy and a gentle spoken Northern Irish chap, John. It was a great gathering.

Setting out from Hontanas

The ruins of the 14th century convent of San Antón - St Anthony - which we walked through

Walking through the ruins of  the 14th century convent of San Antón, St Anthony

The convent of St Claire

This is Pappy's house for today - the ruins of a 9th century castle sitting high above the town of Castrojeriz. It might be a bit draughty but think of the view Pappy will have.

The sisters of the St Claire convent make Tau crosses - so loved by St Francis. This Tau cross was part of a water fountain near the church.

Walking through Castrojeriz 

Roses are really starting to bloom now.

The way out of Castrojeriz looking towards the path which winds up and around this high plateau which looks deceptively low in this photo.

On the way to the plateau.

Walking up the steep track which was at least 3 kms to the top.

At the top of our climb

The pilgrim shelter at the top was very welcome. We had a water and chocolate snack stop here and were sheltered from the strong wind.

Pilgrims have completely covered the shelter's woodwork with messages and comments. This one reads 'The Camino is the Teacher ❤ from NZ'.

The top of the plateau was completely flat.

Then came the short, extremely steep descent.

...back on the level the path goes on:

The hermitage of St Nicholas

And finally Itero de la Vega is not far away

Itero de la Vega

The church has three stork nests.